Fjorde des Feuerlands – in 4 Tagen das Abenteuer erleben
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Gletscher und Pinguine – weiter als das Auge schauen kann!
Ende September ging es für mich mit einem 14 Stunden Flug nach Chile. Um genau zu sein, über Santiago nach Punta Arenas. Meine erste mehrtägige Schifffahrt stand bevor. Vom Flughafen in Punta Arenas ging es zum Check-In der Stella Australis, um dort auf das Schiff zu gelangen. Das Gepäck wurde von den Mitarbeitern am Check-In entgegen genommen, von nun an hieß im warmen Warteraum sitzen und auf das GO warten.
Deck der Australis. Aufgenommen mit Olympus OM-D E-M10 Miii
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- Die Kabine
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- Ausblick aus dem Steuerraum
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- Eine Aussicht ist immer versprochen
Keine Stunde später wurde ich müde von dem Expeditionsteam der Australis herzlich empfangen, zu meiner Kabine gebracht und in die wichtigsten Dinge auf Schiff eingeführt. Mein Koffer stand im Zimmer, die Rettungswesten hingen im Schrank und beruhigt konnte ich die Beine ausstrecken. Von nun an hieß es, 4 Tage auf Schiff und immer wieder kurze Expeditionen an Land. Darauf war ich am meisten gespannt. Bis dato war ich ein Fan von hingehen wohin ich will, zurückkommen wann ich will und da dies auf Schiff nicht ganz so leicht möglich ist – es sei denn man möchte an Land zurückgelassen werden und Cast Away nachspielen – hält man sich an die Regeln.
Kurze Zeit nachdem alle Passagiere auf Schiff gefunden haben, wurden alle zu einem Begrüßungscocktail eingeladen. Kostenfrei natürlich! Die gesamte Crew, angefangen von den Expeditionsleitern bis hin zum Kapitän, hat sich vorgestellt und es wurde ein Eiblick gewährt, was am nächsten Tag geplant war. Unmittelbar danach merkte man ein leichtes Rucken und das Schiff machte sich auf den Weg von Punta Arenas in Richtung des südlichsten Punkt der Erde.
Die Nacht über fuhr das Schiff sanft durch die Kanäle Feuerlands, um im Morgengrauen durch die Almirantazgo-Sund zur Ainsworth-Bucht zu gelangen. An der Ainsworth-Bucht angekommen, Rettungsweste angezogen, zu den Booten gebeten, auf die Boote gesetzt und mit einem holprigen Auf und Ab zum Strand gefahren. Hier wurden die Rettungswesten abgelegt und unsere Wanderung durch den subantarktischen, magellanschen Urwald begann, bei der wir nahezu die ganze Zeit den Marinelli Gletscher im Blickfeld hatten, bis zu einem Bieberdamm.
Ainsworth-Bucht Aufgenommen mit der OM-D EM10 Miii und 75-300mm Objektiv
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- Marinelli-Gletscher im Hintergrund
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- Die Expeditionsgruppe im subantarktischen, magellanschen Urwald
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- Ausblick auf den Marinelli-Gletscher
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- Am Strand der Ainsworth Bucht
Später, zurück auf dem Schiff, versuchte ich mich etwas aufzuwärmen, denn trotz Frühling, fühlt es sich an wie Winter bei uns in der Stadt. Deswegen als kleiner Tipp an alle, die solch eine Reise in Erwägung ziehen: viele, viele warme Klamotten einpacken! Nach dem Mittagessen begann die selbe Tortour wieder, Rettungsweste an, auf die Boote und auf zu den Tucker Inseln um dort die süßen Magellanpinguine und Kormorane zu beobachten. Fun Fact: Zu dieser Jahreszeit bewohnen nur männliche Magellanpinguine die Inseln, damit diese die Neste bauen, um etwas später im Jahr die Weibchen begrüßen und ihrer Artenerhaltung nachgehen zu können.
Kolonie von Kormoranen
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- Magellanpinguine auf den Tucker Inseln
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- Magellanpinguine
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- Aufgenommen mit der Olympus OM-D EM10 Miii
Am Abend auf Schiff trifft man sich auf einen Cocktail auf Deck, bekommt Informationen zum nächsten Tag und für alle Interessierten gibt es auch Dokumentationen über die Gegenden, die man die Tage über sieht. Tag 3 der Reise, stand eines meiner Highlights an, das Schiff hält im Beagle-Kanal und wir werden in die Pía-Bucht gebracht, um dort den atemberaubenden Pia-Gletscher hautnah erleben zu können. Eine kleine Wanderung zu einem Aussichtspunkt, um die Bergkette des Gletschers besser sehen zu können, startet. Hier sieht man nicht nur die prachtvolle Masse und Größe des Gletschers, sondern auch wie er sich ins Meer hinein schiebt. Immer wieder hört man ein lautes knacken und platschen – wenn man schnell genug war, sieht man wie ein Teil des Eises abbricht und ins Meer fällt.
Expedition zum Pia-Gletscher aufgenommen mit der Olympus O-MD E-M10 Mark III & M.Zuiko 14-42mm
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- Pia-Gletscher
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- Pia-Gletscher
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- Der Pia-Gletscher aufgenommen mit der Olympus OM-D EM10 MIII bei 300mm
Nach dieser Erfahrung, glaubt man kaum etwas noch schöneres sehen zu können und wird dennoch eines besseren belehrt, wenn das Schiff nämlich weiter fährt und die Allee der Gletscher passiert. Alle paar Meter ein weiterer Gletscher, der ins Meer hinein ragt. Einer größer als der andere, schöner als der andere und einfach nur WOW!
Beginn der Fahrt durch die Allee der Gletscher
Die ganze Zeit habe ich gehofft, dass es nicht dazu kommt, von Tag 3 auf 4 hatte ich sie dennoch – die erste schlaflose Nacht. Das Schiff war am schaukeln und ich bekam das Gefühl mit geschlossenen Augen auf einer Achterbahn mitzufahren. Trotz wenig Schlaf, raffte ich mich auf um die Expedition zum Kap Hoorn bei Sonnenaufgang miterleben zu können.
Sonnenaufgang am Kaaphoorn
Etwas später am Tag legen wir nahe der Wulaia-Bucht an und werden mit den Booten an Land gebracht, woraufhin eine Wanderung durch den magellanschen Urwald beginnt. Der Guide erzählt, während der Wanderung, historische Geschehnisse von der größten Siedlung der Yamana-Indianer, von Charles Darwin (keine Sorge ich kannte ihn zuvor auch nicht) welcher 1833 hier an Land ging und der beindruckenden Geschichte eines Jungen, welcher in die westliche Welt eingewöhnt wurde. Oben angekommen, erhält man eine wunderschöne Aussicht über die Wulaia-Bucht. Ich kann jedem nur ans Herz legen, für einen Moment inne zu nehmen und einfach der Natur zu lauschen. Solche Momente behält man definitiv in Erinnerung! Nach einer kleinen Pause, geht es langsam wieder zurück. Wenn man achtsam genug ist, wird man das ein oder andere mal einen Specht hämmern hören und durchaus auch sehen können.
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- Ausblick über die Wulaia-Bucht
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- Wulaia-Bucht
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- Expedition an Land. Wulaia-Bucht
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- Die Stella Australis in der Wulaia-Bucht
Auf Schiff angekommen, werden die Passagiere nach einer Aufwärmphase in den gemeinschaftlichen Esssaal gerufen und es gibt das letzte gemeinsame Abendessen. Nach einer ruhigen Nacht kurz vor Ushuaia, der südlichsten Stadt der Welt, werden wir nach dem Frühstück ausgeschifft. Hier erkunde ich noch eine Weile die Stadt – welche sehr touristisch ist – und fahre dann zum Flughafen, um von dort aus meinen langen Heimweg anzutreten.
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- Ushuaia im Morgengrauen
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- Sicht auf Ushaia vom Schiff aus
Alle Aufnahmen wurden mit der Olympus O-MD E-M 10 Mark III und den Objektiven M.Zuiko 14-42mm & M.Zuiko Digital 75-300mm aufgenommen.
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